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- <text id=91TT1622>
- <title>
- July 22, 1991: How to Eat, How to Live
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1991
- July 22, 1991 The Colorado
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- BOOKS, Page 62
- How to Eat, How to Live
- </hdr><body>
- <p>Sick of foul British weather, Peter Mayle finds a paradise in
- Provence, and even a pot of gold
- </p>
- <p>By Martha Duffy
- </p>
- <p> Oh, to discover in the pages of a book the secret of the
- sweet life--the joys of a bountiful climate, brilliant sun and
- a splendid cuisine. The problem is that contentment is a tough
- subject for a writer. Travel literature is rich, the annals of
- staying put sparse. Cookbooks fill libraries, but the
- revelations of satisfied palates, at least accounts that seduce
- and inspire a reader, are scarce.
- </p>
- <p> All that makes Peter Mayle something of a wonder. A devout
- sun worshiper and the husband of an expert amateur cook, he
- stumbled on a patch of Provence and left his native England
- without delay or regret. He did the things a lot of dreamers do:
- he bought language tapes, a 200-year-old house, a Citroen deux
- chevaux, and resolved to write a novel. But the renovation of
- ancient stone and the crafting of new fiction do not mix; each
- day workmen banished Mayle to a succession of chalky corners.
- So what could he do with his time except make his fortune--by
- chronicling the scene around him in irresistible prose?
- </p>
- <p> Two books later, Mayle is something of a publishing
- phenomenon. Toujours Provence (Knopf; $20), his second
- collection of essays, is climbing the best-seller lists. The
- success story began two years ago with the British publication
- of A Year in Provence. The hardback edition at first received
- a mild, pleasant response, but never underestimate favorable
- word of mouth. In paperback the book was No. 1 on the charts for
- 60 weeks, and Mayle's plumber, mason and the rest of the
- artisans became popular heroes. In the U.S. the paperback has
- just appeared, and the publisher is rushing extra printings.
- </p>
- <p> It's significant that the first sentence of the first book
- is "The year began with lunch." This flat-bellied author ("only
- one real meal a day") loves food with discriminating passion and
- in Provence has found his ideal turf. "You pay attention," he
- observes, "to when the melons are good, when asparagus arrives,
- to the fact that wild mushrooms are due in three weeks. It's
- about as far away from pretentious cuisine as you can get.
- Everyone's got an opinion or a secret. With a couple of
- questions, they'll talk about it."
- </p>
- <p> Or they'll talk to this curious listener. Toujours
- Provence contains an intricate aria of shoptalk from an expert
- truffle hunter who has even filmed his pig at work, "its snout
- moving rhythmically back and forth, ears flopping over its eyes,
- a single-minded earth-moving machine." A similar cameo on the
- history of pastis ("the milk of Provence") is written with an
- unpompous sense of discovery and an appropriate amount of
- thirst.
- </p>
- <p> Though he has mastered the offhand approach, Mayle, 52,
- has a sophisticated sense of how to make words count and how to
- charm a reader. He credits his skills to his early career in
- advertising. He had chosen the field mostly because of his
- favorite English teacher, who, in addition to pointing out the
- elements of style, noted that writers "can live where they like,
- work on their own schedule, choose their subject and blame no
- one but themselves for failure." Mayle had finished college in
- Barbados, where his father was living. There he discovered
- another lifelong love: the sun. Says he: "I thought, you don't
- have to wear socks here. I am physically attracted to warm,
- bright skies."
- </p>
- <p> In London he became the protege of adman David Ogilvy,
- whom he greatly admires. People in advertising are reviled
- nearly as often as lawyers, but Mayle thinks it makes a fine
- first career. "You learn to present an idea lucidly, and you
- must have a picture of who your audience is," he says. "It's a
- wonderful preparation for several things, like politics and
- charity work."
- </p>
- <p> Sixteen years ago, Mayle quit the field. "I ran out of
- enthusiasm, which is essential," he says. The worst part was the
- drop in income: "Huge...huge." But other things suggested
- themselves. When his eldest son (he has five children) asked him
- about the facts of life, he found himself tongue-tied. He sat
- right down and wrote a manuscript, Where Did I Come From?, which
- was bought by a publisher in 15 minutes. Mayle's conclusion:
- "This is the game to get into."
- </p>
- <p> He is still chastised in the press for another project--a series of silly books, done with a cartoonist, called Wicked
- Willie. Willie is an erect penis. Until the publication in
- Britain of Toujours Provence, the author had pretty much slipped
- under the critical net and tended to think of reviewers as
- tolerant folk like himself. But second time around, his
- detractors were ready. The Spectator magazine published not one
- but two critiques upbraiding Mayle for barging into print after
- only three or four years in the area, using occasional French
- phrases and being arch. One account even disparages Provencal
- cooking ("never the kind of haute cuisine to be found...in
- Burgundy or the Perigord").
- </p>
- <p> Yes, there are occasional foreign words, and once in a
- while the author's geniality shades into coyness. But it is also
- true that the South of France has been a favorite stamping
- ground for British vacationers for generations now; many of the
- intelligentsia have bought houses. It just may be that Mayle has
- committed the unpardonable sin of making money out of simple
- material that was available to all.
- </p>
- <p> On a book-promotion tour through the U.S. last month,
- Mayle met five people in Cleveland who had driven through his
- town within the past year. Small world. Now it's home to the
- "true heat and sharp light" of his adopted country. Not much has
- changed. The Mayles have a new car, but it is another Citroen.
- Finally he will finish his novel, to be called Hotel Pastis. It
- promises to be a good place to check into.
- </p>
-
- </body></article>
- </text>
-
-